My route Santander to Cerdeira
Check out my YouTube video https://youtu.be/fDlj4vTWuOE to see my Covid 19 Escape by ferry from Portsmouth to Santander and my first nights stay in the misty mountains, at Torio, just one hours drive from Santander.
Driving through the stunning Picos de Europa mountains of Northern Spain reminded me so much of Norway. Near to Cangus de Onis, the gateway to the National park, are the high-altitude lakes, Enol and Ercina, of Covadonga (1134m) where I saw golden eagles riding the thermals. The twisty windy route up there, which seemed to be endless on the coach that takes you up in high season, was as magnificent as the final destination itself.
Covadonga – Picos de Europa
The small village of Covadonga at the foot of these mountains is a religious sanctuary and a place of pilgrimage. The statue of “La Santina”, a title of the Blessed Virgin Mary, is housed in a cave built into the rock above a waterfall. This together with the basilica makes this historic and religious site a place of peace, beauty and spirituality.
Peneda – Geres & Riano Dam
From here I headed southwest towards the next mountain range of Northern Portugal, the Peneda – Geres. On the way I crossed the huge Riano Dam which relocated the entire village of Riano from the valley in 1987. Imagine being told that you had to leave your home because the land that had been in your family for centuries was going to be flooded in order to generate hydroelectric power. The water is a crazy brilliant blue, my photo doesn’t do it justice but my video does https://youtu.be/fDlj4vTWuOE
Portuguese border crossing
The crossing of the border from Spain into Portugal was nearly miss-able. Apart from the fact that there was a petrol station (what else?!), a sign welcoming you to the region of Montalegre and my car clock going back one hour. You can witness the entire exciting moment on my YouTube video.
Montalegre
I was excited to have arrived in Portugal and the lake at Montalegre was a beautiful spot to stay the night, particularly as there was a full moon. I sat in the doorway of the van, not thinking much of anything, watching the night sky and the reflection of the moon in the water for a long time.
Passadicos do Paiva (Paiva walkways)
Continuing on my southwest route my next adventure was the region of Arouca where the Passadicos do Paiva resides. A spectacular 8km walk (one way) along a wooden walkway surrounded by uniquely beautiful landscapes. It’s a journey through biology, geology and archeology. Watch my video to see how beautiful it was – but oh my goodness it was hot!
Following this exertion, I stayed in the region of Penafiel on the banks of the river for a couple of days respite from all the twisty mountain driving I had been doing. It was so re-energising just enjoying being still in nature.
Frecha da Mizarela waterfall & Poco Azul
Onward to Frecha da Mizarela, reportedly the highest (and most beautiful) waterfall in mainland Portugal and one of the highest waterfalls of Europe. It certainly was quite a drive to get there. I did not trek down to the base because of the heat of the day and I have regretted it every since, as I have since been told that you can bathe in the pool of water at the bottom. Note to oneself to not be complacent about exploring despite the heat, as the opportunity maybe not come again.
Poco Azul
Poco Azul is a beautiful turquoise green natural pool and it was here that I was looking forward to a nice dip to cool off. That’s a huge understatement, the water was absolutely freezing, and I mean freezing. I got as far as putting my legs in it until I could no longer feel my toes which was literally thirty seconds. I’m not sure I could have swam across the pool without getting hyperthermia! It is a really lovely place to hang out and there are other smaller pools a little walk down the river so you can have some privacy.
My overnight stay was at Granjal next to yet another lake. It became almost a necessity for me to be near water to be able to cool off at the end of the day. And there is nothing better than being parked up next to water.
Coimbra – Foz De Equa & Fraga da Pena waterfall
The next day I was heading into the region of Coimbra. I was a little nervous because there had recently been a number of fires in this region, but I had it on good authority that there were none currently. Although I was to find out that there was still a high risk and I saw many a burnt tree. I can only imagine with the wind how quickly a fire can spread out here as there are a lot of trees.
I headed through narrow mountain roads until I reached the beautiful village of Foz De Equa, which has a natural fresh water pool. It was cold but this time I did go in, albeit not for long. There is a lovely short walk up to a shrine and I will be featuring this in my next YouTube video.
and then onward to Fraga da Pena waterfall.
I ended my long day of driving at Praia Fluvial Senhora da Ribeira. It was a lovely spot but unfortunately one of those that are frequented by youths until the early hours of the morning, but as you can see I was tucked away in the trees so they did not bother me. Just kept me awake for a while.
My final destination for this leg of the journey was around an insanely deep valley in the Serra da Lousa mountain, to reach the stone village of Cerdeira. It is one of the 27 schist villages spread across the Lousa and Acor ranges. Schist, because this is the stone used in the construction of houses. This village was abandoned in the late 70’s for social and economic reasons but now its rural architectural heritage is now almost completely restored and the aim is to give it a new life and meaning as a home for creativity.
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