I was sad to leave Mull, but the sun was shining and I was headed for Glencoe. What a fabulous drive through the glen it is. I headed to Kinlochleven, at the far end of Loch Leven, as I had hoped to stay the night somewhere on the loch edge. What an incredible drive on the mountain side around the loch, certainly made me face my fear of heights, I tend to make squealing noises every time a bend comes up with a sheer drop! But it’s getting easier and even becoming enjoyable when I actually manage to look at the view. Kinlochleven apparently has the tallest indoor ice mountain you can climb! The place was desserted, the only thing I can say for it is that it has a great river running through it and a lovely riverside walk that opens out into Loch Leven. So I left there hoping that I was going to find somewhere to park up the van on the east side of the loch. I hadn’t gone far when I saw this big pull-in, a motorhome was already residing there, but it was the perfect place to stay and spend the afternoon, now 23 degrees. So I donned my bikini and found a quiet remote spot on the loch and washed my hair in the loch and then sunbathed for the rest of the afternoon. Bliss.
Next day I headed for Glenfinnan via Fort William. I did not stop in Fort William as it didn’t seem to have any great appeal, unless you are going to board the Jacobite steam train to Mallaig, which I had wanted to do, but the tickets for this week were all sold out. Glenfinnan, did not disappoint. I timed it perfectly to see the steam train come over the viaduct as filmed for Harry Potter. Of course apart from Harry Potter fame Glenfinnan is more historicly famous for the Jacobite cause, where the Glenfinnan monument stands at the head of Loch Sheil. The bloody battle at Culloden, which I visit later in the week is where the cause ended.
I then headed to Arisaig, alternative coastal route, which is a string of stunning white-sand, azure water beaches. There were quite a few camp sites along this route, and lots of signs on the beaches saying no overnight parking as they want you to pay and stay in the camp sites. However, of course I wasn’t going to do this, so I kept going until I found a small car park with a height barrier which I just managed to get under. It also had the added bonus of toilets and even better a tap to fill up my water reserves. The glorious white sand beach was just a short walk down the beach path.
Thursday already and destination Loch Ness was awaiting. I had the most amazing drive over the Stratherrick Valley on the East side of Loch Ness, I was so high up the views of the mountains all around was incredible. The picture really just doesn’t do it justice. Then down the mountain to Foyers, which sits just above Loch Ness, where there is an impressive waterfall and the beautiful river foyer where I ended up staying two nights because it was so lovely. I think this has been my favourite camping spot so far. Something about the sound of a flowing river when you are going to sleep at night, although the van with the roof down is pretty soundproof.
Saturday I drove down to the northern point of Loch Ness to Dores where Steve, nessiehunter.com has his van. He travelled there 28 years ago in his van and is still there hunting for Nessie! Sadly he wasn’t at home, was away travelling I was told, ha ha. The tourist season hasn’t really started there yet. But I did buy one of his models to help fund his lifestyle! The beach is lovely here too, with beautifully coloured stones and backed by pine forest.
Then as the weather started to close in (rain had finally caught up with me) on to Culloden. It was very atmospheric visiting this moorland spot in the pouring rain where so many men died in such a short space of time. Thank goodness for waterproofs – 2 days ago I was wearing a bikini!
Next stop, Aviemore, the start of my southbound journey. Every journey I have done in Scotland has been a visual delight, even in the rain the scenery is stunning. Glenmore has some lovely parking right on the shores of Loch Morfich, with its beautiful tall pine trees and surrounded by the mountains. You are not supposed to stay after midnight in these parking places but because tourist season hasn’t really started there I did and nobody moved me on. After the rain finally stopped (the next day) I took a walk up the mountain to An Lochan Uaine, known as the “Green Loch”. Another beautiful sight to behold.
So today, Tuesday 21st May when I left Glenmore a really bizarre thing happened. I put in my satnav to head towards Pitlochy, and just followed it as I normally would. It hasn’t let me down in Scotland at all – yet! So it took me up the Cairngorm mountain range, which I didn’t think much off as I hadn’t checked the map to see which way I should have been going. Now my fear of heights was being tested to it’s limits, but as I was going up I was on the left hand side of the road away from the edge of the mountain so it was fine and I even stopped at a pull in and took a picture. Then my sat nav told me to take a sharp right hand turn, rather than continue up the mountain, which now meant I was driving back down the mountain on the sheer drop side. At this point my senses told me that I felt like I was driving in circles, back the way I came, which ended up being the case. Now, call it my sat nav having a mad moment, if you like, but I think life was testing me to see whether I really am ready to drive around the mountain passes of Norway. Well I think I am, bring it on!
Back to the present. I stopped off at Pitlochy, a sweet town with lots of fish & chip and icecream shops and a dam! I was very good and resisted it all as I am already over my monthly budget! I had a lovely walk to a waterfall and then as it was only 4pm I decided to drive a bit more to Dunkeld where there is a lovely loch and I am typing this sitting in the carpark of the Nature Reserve where breeding ospreys live. I got my binoculars out and could see them sitting in their nest. Very cool. Tomorrow I head to St. Andrews, avoiding the Tay bridge of course, so via Perth where as it happens I need to go anyway to fill up my LGP gas as it has almost run out, and there are only certain petrol stations in Scotland that sell it!
