After a stop at Balmaha to top up water I headed to Inversnaid (another end of the road place on Loch Lomond). I had read there was a waterfall there and it was en-route to Oban, from where I would be getting the ferry to Mull. There was a very narrow steep road with shear drops heading down into Inversnaid and I chickened out half way down where there was a good turning point and turned around and headed back up to the loch side (Loch Arklet) where I had seen a nice spot to stay overnight.
The next morning, after waiting out the rain, I headed out on my bicycle down the narrow road to Inversnaid. It turned out I was nearly at the bottom of the road in the van and it wasn’t nearly so scary as I had anticipated. The waterfall was nice, but not that impressive. However, the cycle/walk along the West Highland Way to Rob Roy’s cave was well worth the trip, despite having to push the bike back up the hill! Lesson learnt, do not chicken out driving down a hill. It did make me laugh that the word ‘CAVE’ was written on the outside but thank goodness it was as otherwise I could have been scrambling about on the side of the cliff for hours!
Next I headed towards Balquhidder – Loch Doine, where apparently Rob Roy’s grave is and again not far off the route to Oban. However, it was a long drive down the loch on the single track road, with not many places to stop for an overnight stay but I spotted one or two on the way down so once I reached the end of the loch at a convenient turn around point I headed back to my chosen spot. I nearly got myself stuck in mud! But luckily I realised just in time and managed to rock the van out of it and park on firmer ground. I was right next to the water and I decided to wash my hair with the water from the loch, so I donned my bikini thinking I could also take a quick bath! I bought some eco wash called Wilderness Wash that you can use for everything from washing yourself and hair to washing the dishes and clothes. Never has my hair been so soft! I was feeling brave after washing my hair and waded in to the lock, up to my calves, before I realised that I was likely to get hyperthermia if I went any further, so wash was abandoned.
The next morning I woke up feeling really cold and when I looked outside I could not believe my eyes. There was snow on the mountain tops.
No wonder I was so cold. Then my first problem struck. The gas would not work, so I could not put on the heater or make a cup of tea. I have since figured out that when the leisure battery is running low there is not enough power to keep the gas flow going so I need to ensure that if I haven’t driven very far that the leisure battery gets a full charge from the solar panel. Tricky if the weather is overcast! I quickly got dressed and headed towards Oban. It was an incredible drive across Brander Pass which looked really pretty with the snow on the mountain tops. I reached Oban around 11.30am and ended up getting on the 2pm ferry arriving 40 minutes later in Craignure. With my drive in the opposite direction to everyone else hat on I turned left headed to Lochbuie beach. Another long scenic single track road, alongside a loch, but again worth the drive to the beach. A perfect location, the sun still shining and wood to make a lovely fire on the beach. I even got my guitar out and recorded a youtube video. I should have practiced more before putting such a video on youtube but the moment was then!
The next night it rained so I wouldn’t have been able to do it
There is a lovely coastal walk heading towards Carsaig but I didn’t get that far so after 2 nights I left Lochbuie and headed to Carsaig to do the 3 mile coastal path to Carsaig Arches, formed by eroded sea caves. The road down to Carsaig was so narrow and steep, I don’t know what you do when another vehicle comes the other way as there are very few passing places. However, I don’t think many people venture here as the carpark was only big enough for about 4 cars! Also if I had known what the cliff path was going to be like to walk I probably wouldn’t have done it, it took about 2 hours to get to the Arches. At times I felt like the mountain goats that I passed, clambering around the side of the mountain side. On the way back I took a shower in a waterfall I had spotted on the way. It was very refreshing! and the 10 degrees outside temperature felt warm when I got out of the water! I eventually got back to my car at around 4.30pm and headed towards my next overnight beach stop at Uisken.
What a beautiful beach Uisken has. Just a couple of other campervans there and cost £2 for the night including water. You cannot believe what an asset that is, not to have to hunt for water when you need to fill up. So that is where I woke up on my birthday morning. It was going to be an emotional day for sure as it was the first birthday I have ever been on my own away from family and friends.
I headed to Fionnphort on the far west coast of Mull, parked again for free (all the village carparks on Mull seem to be free) and got the ferry over to Iona (£3.50), reputed to be the resting place of sixty kings. I took my bike with me and it meant that I could cover the whole length of Iona (only 3 miles) in a couple of hours. As soon as you arrive in Iona you have the feel of being on the meditteranean coast line as the sea is bluey green and so clear, it did help that the sun was shining of course. At the northern end of the island, past the Cathedral, there are several large beautiful desserted sandy beaches – maybe not quite so desserted in the summer months. I did not go in the Cathedral as you had to pay £7.10 (not expensive really but outside of my budget) especially as I was treating myself to tea and cake for my birthday later on at one of the hotels, nothing posh mind you! I met a really lovely lady, called Helen, whilst eating my cake and we had a lovely conversation about travelling and life in general and headed back on the ferry together. Hopefully Helen you are reading this?! After I had finished on Iona I jumped back in the van and headed back to Uisken beach as I liked it there so much.
The next day, Saturday, after a chilled out morning at Uisken,
(I was feeling a little hungover after drinking the entire bottle of champagne that Sussex Campervans had given me), I drove on the road that goes across the island from South to North to Calgary Bay. OMG, what a drive that is. 2 hours of climbing around mountain sides, and lochs, spectacular but scary at times with bend after bend on the edge of some very long sheer drops! Those who know me know I’m not great with heights especially when sitting higher up in a van! Anyway, I was relieved when I finally got there and what a magnificent sandy bay it is. There’s a special place reserved for campervans and cars and the motorhomes have to park up the hill in the main carpark. All free and there was even a toilet block. It was like a little campervan community and there was even someone else there with a guitar. He was pretty good so mine remained silently in its case! I enjoyed being around the hubbub of conversation, although I had a quiet night in!
I headed out early on Sunday morning at 7.45am as I had a boat trip booked at Tobermory at 9.15am. My birthday treat to myself, paid for with birthday money of course. It only took about 45 minutes to get there, and the drive was a lot easier than yesterday, especially as there was virtually no other cars on the road coming the opposite direction at that time in the morning. I did meet a couple of crazy Mull drivers, who just drive so fast and then slam on their breaks when they see a vehicle coming by which time it’s normally a good job if you have been able to pull out of their way, even if the pull in is on their side of the road. If you ever come to Mull when you are going to pull in to a passing point then you show your intention by indicating that you are pulling over. You learn this pretty quickly! Tobermory is very sweet, nothing much there though apart from the pretty coloured buildings that are mostly places to eat, craft or gift shops. There was a handy co-op though in which I bought some supplies. The boat trip I did was with the www.sealifesurveys.com. I had read that this is the best company to use and I would certainly agree. I did the 4 hour trip, which was plenty and saw minky whales, dolphins riding the waves of the boat, eagles, seals and a number of other sea birds. It was well worth the £60 cost and as you can see I got some great photos and video. The team on the boat were so friendly and knowledgeable. After the boat trip I had a much anticipated/needed hot shower in the Harbour building. £2 for 7 minutes, so I paid for 14 minutes so I could also do my washing. It was bliss, I finally felt properly clean again.
I then decided to head back to my first nights stopover on Mull, Lochbuie, rather than scouting out somewhere new. I had been recommended a place called Garmony, near to Fishnish, by the lady in the visitor centre at Tobermory, apparently there is a small beach there. Lochbuie is about 45 minutes drive from Craignure, the ferry port. In the evening I was invited to have a glass of wine with a family that had arrived a little after I had, they were very interested in my lifestyle choice. It was great having a conversation about it all sitting late into the night with a grand fire on the beach. One of the things I miss the most is conversation and am talking even more to myself than I used to!
This morning I took a cycle/walk to see a stone circle dating from the second century BC, the tallest of the stones about 6ft tall. I took the opportunity to meditate a while in the middle of the stones with the sun shining on me. It felt very spiritual. I have just spent the rest of the day hanging out by the van in the sunshine. I still can’t believe how amazing the weather has been since I’ve been in Scotland. I can stay one more day on Mull, and will be staying exactly where I am. It seems to be getting busier now, a week ago there was only 3 vans here, now there is about 10 although there is plenty of room to be spaced out and I have my own little niche on the grass at the end of the carpark. I will be sad to leave but the rest of Scotland is waiting for me.
